The Rasmussen table loom is assembled and ready to go! |
Try as I might, I could not find a manual for this loom. But while it would have been nice, I figured a table loom is a loom, right? I've never worked on one before, but was guessing I could figure it out.
For my first warp, I decided to weave a sampler. For one thing, I don't want to be overly confident climbing back into the weaving saddle again. For another, I need to learn this loom. I figured a smaller piece for practice would likely mean fewer frustrations if I run into problems.
To refresh my skills (and memory), I dusted off my copy of Learning To Weave by Deborah Chandler. Ironically, this is the book I was working my way through when I first started this blog!
I don't have a raddle for this loom, so my first warp will have to be front to back. This is how I learned, but I had a lot of trouble with tension, so I later started warping back to front. That helped a lot! (You can learn the details in my post, B2F vs F2B: Why I Switched.)
Instructions for the sampler recommended two contrasting colors. I chose blue and white.
8/2 cotton |
Then I had to figure out where to put my warping board to measure the warp. Over-the-door hooks on the closet door worked really well.
The sampler will be a small one, and I need two yards, 60 ends of each color. |
The first step after measuring the warp is sleying the reed. For that, the book said to secure the beater bar in its upright position. Well, that stumped me because there's no latch to secure the beater in any position. Then I took a closer look at the simple dowel setup for the beater.
Beater bar set on one of the two dowels lets it move back and forth easily. |
I had no idea why the loom had two dowels for the beater; maybe to shift it's position back to allow a little more weaving room(?) Then it dawned on me to try this . . .
Sleying the reed |
Threading the heddles. I started by resting my arms on the back beam, but quickly discovered it's more comfortable to work under the beam. |
Every 12 threads in the heddles are tied with an overhand knot. The loose warp waiting to be threaded is tied with a slip knot. |
Potential for disaster seemingly fast asleep. |
Tying the warp to the back apron rod. |
Next came winding on the warp. I confess I was nervous about this. From the video, How To Put a Warp on Your Table Loom, Pt. 1, I learned that one advantage to a table loom is that it's easy to tension the warp by pulling it with one hand, while winding it on with the other. No weights or extra person necessary. But could I hold the tension evenly? That's the question.
Winding on the warp with no tension. |
Ready to secure to the front of the loom. |
Lashed on warp |
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