Showing posts with label Saori. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Saori. Show all posts

Sunday, February 18, 2024

Saori Su-chan Wool Cap

Done! The modifications I made from my sample cap were happily spot on.

Project Particulars

  • Warp: commercial 2/3 Shetland wool
  • Weft: 
    • handspun North Ronaldsay wool (natural colors)
    • handspun Border Leicester wool (dyed in shades of blue)
  • Sett: 12 e.p.i.
  • 156 warp ends
  • Structure: plain weave
  • Project length
    • on loom: 28 inches
    • after wet finishing: 24 inches
  • Project width
    • on loom: 13 inches
    • after wet finishing: 12 inches
The inconsistencies of the handspun gave the fabric a lovely texture. 

Construction Notes
  • During wet finishing, I worked the fabric to full it a bit.
  • Then, I followed the same construction steps as I did for the sample cap.
  • The problem was that fulling bonded the fibers so that I couldn't gather the fabric on three warp threads. It was stuck together. 
  • My solution was to use a running stitch with a length of the handspun and use this to gather the fabric. That solved the problem.
The Su-chan cap is technically supposed to be a no-sew design.
Not sure if that running stitch counts as sewing or not!

The cap fits well, is warm, and covers my ears. Perfect for our frosty winter mornings.

Posted by at 4 comments:
Labels:

Wednesday, February 14, 2024

Su-chan Cap: Fabric Off the Loom


The cloth is off the loom and the next step will be to wash and full it a bit. I don't want to mess up the long fringes to be braided, so that will need a bit of care. Then I can construct the cap.

Weaving Notes & Observations
  • The finer wool yarn I used for warp wasn't the best choice for this purpose.
    • I knew that would be the case.
    • I knew I'd probably have to do a lot of warp repairs.
    • But I only ended up with five breakages, fewer than I anticipated.
  • The Saori philosophy of embracing mistakes served me well.
    • I threaded the loom for plain weave, and discovered a threading error.
    • I also had a few skipped warp threads due to the stickiness of the wool.
    • That gave me occasional 3-thread floats. 
    • In the spirit of Saori, I did not fret over these and left them.
    • Mistakes and errors are the badges of honor which cry out, "A human made me!"
  • Frequent weft changes created rustic selvedges, which I like.


Conclusion

When I started planning for this simple project, I thought I wasn't really going to do Saori weaving because I don't have a Saori loom. Nor did I start with a very good understanding of what Saori weaving is. While I was having fun with it, I found myself turning to the Saori precepts I had read. I think what I realized, is that it's not the weaving that makes it Saori, it's the philosophy. A philosophy that I see can serve me well.

I think perhaps this one-time experiment in the world of Saori weaving will not be my last. 

Next Project: Saori Cap?
Posted by at 2 comments:
Labels: ,

Sunday, February 11, 2024

Su-chan Cap in Wool: Weaving

Warp is commercial Shetland, weft is handspun North Ronaldsay.

After a bout of lovely weather (meaning more time outside and less time at the loom), rain has blown in and I'm able to make some progress on the fabric for my Saori Su-chan cap. Warping was slower than usual because the wool warp is a little sticky (fuzzy) to work with, so I had to take care in threading the loom and winding on. Being a short length, I didn't spray it with anything to make it behave. I just kept combing carefully with my fingers and it seems to be working out okay.

Saori weaving is often described as free-form weaving, which is a new concept for me. While I've chosen specific yarns for warp and weft, which color to use is just according to what I want to use next, rather than following a draft. It's really nice not to have to keep track of where I am in a pattern. I just choose by color and weave until I want to change color.

I like the plaid effect and it should weave up quickly (i.e. more rain today).
Posted by at No comments:
Labels: , ,

Friday, February 02, 2024

Su-chan Cap in Wool: Choosing Yarn

My husband is working on installing the interior door to our greenhouse, which meant I had to move my loom out of the way for him to have working room. So while I haven't been able to warp yet, I've used the time to look over my handspun to choose yarns for a second Su-chan cap in wool. 

Most of my handspun stash are either remnants from previous knitting and weaving projects, or single skeins from various fleece samples from different breeds. Few of them are enough for even a knit cap or scarf, but for this Saori style cap, that works in my favor. 

I thought briefly about using handspun for the warp, but there's always too much warp waste, even using it for the cap fringe. So, I decided on commercial wool weaving yarn. I recently dug it out from storage and found a place for it in my studio, so the totes were handy for making a selection. 


This variety of colors will make for more interesting braided fringe, don't you think? The yarns are finer than the cotton-bamboo I used for the sample cap's warp; 20 e.p.i. as opposed to 12. Using the same formula from Peggy Osterkamp, 65% of 20 is 13, so I can use my other new reed at 12 dents per inch. I'll swap the reeds but leave the heddles threaded and tie on the new warp to the old.

For my weft, I chose a number of small skeins in a variety of colors.


The natural colors are North Ronaldsay, a rare breed sheep from the Orkney Islands of Scotland. The blues on top are a mohair/wool blend that I dyed, and the blues on the bottom are Border Leicester, also dyed by me and used to learn color blending with wool combs.

I bought the North Ron fleece samples for a Rare Breed Fleece Challenge with the Online Guild. I used some of it for my Rare Breed Sweater, and some of it for the afghan you see pictured in my blog header. Looking back at the blog post, I see I used it for part of the warp! How brave of me, lol. 

In the spirit of Saori and it's freeform style of weaving, I'm planning a serendipitous approach to warping the loom. Rather than plan the color order of the stripes, I'm just going to tie on the new warp in whatever color strikes my fancy. 

My planned size is 24 inches by 12 inches before construction, with 10 inch fringe.

Posted by at No comments:
Labels:

Monday, January 29, 2024

Su-chan Sample Cap Done

This is a sample cap because I wanted to test drive the pattern before investing handspun yarn on it. I was especially interested in the woven fabric size and final fit of the constructed cap.

The fabric wove up quickly. I'm listening to In the Kingdom of Ice by Hampton Sides on CD, and it's a first class "can't put it down" story. I finished the weaving before I finished the book.

Weaving notes
  • My planned finished length was 23 inches, so I wove it 25 inches to allow for take-up. 
  • On-loom width was 13 inches. 
  • My fringe on-loom was about 10+ inches.
  • I didn't hemstitch, and so had to take care with the first and last weft threads so they wouldn't unravel.

Construction

Three warp threads along one selvedge are separated out on both sides and
 pulled to gather the fabric on that edge. This becomes the back of the cap.

The fabric is folded in half lining up the two selvedges. The fringe
is braided, making sure to use threads from both sides of the cap.

My warp was a plain beige, so to make the braids more
interesting, I added strands of my novelty weft yarn.

The front selvedge of the cap is folded back and the cap is ready to wear.

Trying on for fit

The braided fringe can be worn in the back or on the side.
  • The fit was an exact fit on my head, but I didn't like the snuggness. Wool yarn would have offered more give than the yarns I used, however.
  • Also, I would like less slouchiness, which is a reflection of fabric width.
  • And I'd like the opening from the gathered edge to be less open.
  • I like that it can cover my ears (something my current knitted cap doesn't do).

Changes to make
  • A little longer and narrowier on the loom
  • Wool for warmth and stretchiness
  • A colorful warp for more colorful braided fringe.

The braided fringe is a very fun feature. I can see using beads, bells, feathers, or charms braided in for a dressier look. 

Once again, sampling pays off.

Posted by at 2 comments:
Labels: , ,

Saturday, January 27, 2024

Su-Chan (Saori) Cap: Begun

This is my test cap, for sizing and fit.

Yarns:
  • Warp - Lion Brand Coboo cotton/bamboo rayon
  • Weft - poly/acrylic novelty yarn
The warp measured 12 e.p.i.  From my red plaid scarf, I knew that a sett of 50% (6 e.p.i.) would probably be too loose, so I dug out Peggy Osterkamp's Winding a Warp & Using a Paddle to review her discussion of calculating set by allowing for purpose (page 93). I decided on 65%, which was 7.8 e.p.i., rounded up, of course, to 8. That meant I got to use one of my new reeds!

The weave structure is plain weave and I made a start on it this morning.

So far, so good.

I also wanted to make a note that I'm going to refer to this project as a Su-chan cap, rather than a Saori cap. This is because I don't feel like I'm actually doing Saori weaving, just borrowing a cap design by a Saori weaver. Hence I call it by her name in her honor.

Related posts
Posted by at 2 comments:
Labels: ,

Monday, January 22, 2024

Next Project: Saori Cap?

As I whittle down my mending pile, I start to think seriously about my next weaving project. I have two things to draw on for inspiration: my new reeds and the recent sorting of my handspun yarns. Our cold winter weather is a factor as well, turning my thoughts to things warm and comforting. What I'm drawn to, is weaving a Saori cap (also known as a Su-chan or no-sew hat). 

[SIDENOTE: I can't find a non-copyrighted image to show you the cap, so I'll refer you to photos via a links to Centering with Fiber. And a free PDF tutorial with pictures can be viewed here.]

Maybe I'd better start by explaining Saori weaving. Sometimes described as "zen weaving," "freeform weaving," or "free-style weaving," it's a contemporary idea developed by Misao Jo of Japan. "Saori" comes from the words, Sai, a Zen term which means "everything has its own dignity / beauty," and Ori, which is Japanese for "weaving." Saori looms have only two shafts and two treadles because the Saori philosophy emphasizes color and texture rather than a specific technique, structure, or style of weaving. It embraces individuality, and what others may call "mistakes." Basically, it means the weaver is free from rules and conventions to weave what and how they want.

The Saori cap is credited to Su-chan, who designed it in her Saori studio in Japan. Besides being attractive and perfect for handspun yarn, I think the design is exceedingly clever (as are all garments designed with Saori fabrics). The waste warp before and after the woven fabric is incorporated into the cap as fringe which can be braided or twisted or whatever. I love anything that decreases waste!

Directions and descriptions of weaving and making the cap still leave me with questions, so I decided to try a test cap first. I have quite a few small lots of commercial yarns, and have chosen a couple of possibilities for weaving, making, and sizing a sample cat cap (spell checker didn't catch that one).

The novelty yarn on the left is actually navy blue, not black.


I think any of these color combinations would be fun to weave with. The solid color yarns are  a cotton/bamboo blend, which I'd use for the warp. The textured yarns are poly/acrylic yarn and would probably be best for the weft. Once I get the size right, I'll make one with handspun wool, which will be much warmer!


Related post
Posted by at 2 comments:
Labels: ,
Subscribe to: Posts (Atom)