Gamp - a woven piece divided into equal sections for the purpose of exploring interactions of structure or color. Common examples are color gamps, twill gamps, and block weave gamps.
I want to weave a set of twill gamp dishtowels to explore straight twill, point twill, rosepath, and broken twill threadings with a variety of treadling patterns. Finished size of each towel will be 16" x 24".
Random Planning Thoughts
- A 16-inch woven width means I can have four, 4-inch squares, each with a different threading.
- Or eight, 2-inch squares, which would repeat the threading patterns.
- Do I want to border each square or leave them side-by-side without borders?
- It's a twill gamp, so I like the idea of borders to frame the weave structure samples,
- which means I'd probably do better with the 4-inch squares.
- But I like the idea of smaller squares, so maybe no borders?
- I would like repeated threading sections to be different colors.
- I plan to repeat the warp color sequence in the weft.
I'm using information from
my sampler
to plan this project.
Sampler Notes
- yarn: 8/2 cotton
- sett: 20 ends per inch
- actual shrinkage after hand washing and machine drying:
-
width: 5%
-
length: 8%
To make my calculations, I grabbed my copy of Learning To Weave to review how to figure out warp length and width.
Warp Formulas
Length
72" project length for 3, 24" towels+ 9" for folded, sewn hems for 3 towels+ 10% for take-up+ 10% for shrinkage+ 20" loom waste= 117" = 3.25 yards
Width
16" finished width+ 1 inch draw-in+ 10% for shrinkage= 18.7" width on loom× warp set (20 epi)= 374 warp ends needed
Analysis (more rambling thoughts)
- 4 sections (4" squares, each threaded differently) of 374 ends would be 93 ends each and would look something like this
- 8 sections (2" squares) of 374 ends would be 46.7 ends each
- if I make it 46 per color I'll end up with 368 ends
- If I make it 47 ends per color, I'll have 376 ends
- 46 would make it easier for sleying 2 per dent, and I'd only be 6 short of the width calculation
- I'm using 4 threading patterns, so 8 sections with four warp colors means I'd be repeating each threading section with the same color.
- To explore color interactions, I'd like them to be different colors.
- 7 sections of 46 ends each would be 322
- so I'd get the color rotation I wanted
- but one threading pattern would only be used once.
- I'd need 52 warp threads more to make my targeted width.
- Maybe I can add my borders after all, to add more warp and be closer to my target width.
- 8 border stripes of 4 ends each adds 32 more for a total of 354
- Still short 20 warp ends
- Maybe widen the squares to 48 warp ends each (times 7 sections = 336 ends)
- Plus the 32 ends for the borders = 368
- Plus 2 more for floating selvedges = 370
- I'm still short 4 ends of 374, but my actual draw-in and shrinkage for the sampler was 5%. The formula used one inch for draw-in plus 10% for shrinkage, so if I follow this plan, I should still be on target for a 16" total finished width.
I hope I explained that well enough so that I remember what I'm talking
about the next time I read it.
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