Sunday, October 29, 2023

Crackle Weave: Manners of Weaving

Initially, I was going to call this blog post "Crackle Weave: Treadling," because treadling seemed like the next topic in a logical progression of notes:
Except with crackle, there's so much more to it. Treadling is where the fun begins because this is when the patterns reveal themselves on the loom. But also part of the equation are yarn choices (colors, number, and types of weft, etc.) plus the way it's treadled. So I changed the name of the post to better reflect that. 

What I've collected here is a list of the some common ways crackle is woven. I think, really, anything goes, but these are mentioned in multiple sources, so this is my starting point. I'd like to note that they are sometimes called by different names, and I've listed those as I've come across them. Also that this list is a work in progress.

Overshot Manner (also called traditional or two-shuttle crackle)

threading - Scandinavian Favorite
  • uses two shuttles
  • alternates pattern and tabby wefts
    • pattern weft - contrasting color to warp and tabby wefts and heavier
    • tabby weft - same as warp (but may be different color)
  • blocks are woven to square (as many weft picks and warp ends)
  • differs from overshot as there are no floats longer than three threads
  • typically treadled "as drawn in." (see below)
  • Patterns featured in Marguerite Porter Davison's A Handweaver's Pattern Book and Anne Dixon's the Handweaver's Pattern Directory both use this method of weaving.

As-Drawn-In (also called tromp-as-writ)
  • treadling simply follows the threading draft
  • uses two shuttles
  • alternates pattern and tabby wefts
    • pattern weft - contrasting color to warp and tabby wefts and heavier
    • tabby weft - same as warp (but may be different color)

Plain Weave

threading - Scandinavian Favorite
  • one shuttle weave (no tabby)
  • alternates plain weave sheds: 1 & 3 and 2 & 4
  • typically used to start or finish off a warp
  • threading pattern is pretty much lost with plain weave treadling

As Twill
  • crackle is a twill based structure, so any of the 2/2 twill treadlings will work
  • can be woven with or without tabby
  • yarns can be same or different sizes
Twill treadling without tabby (here, a birds eye treadling)
More treadling examples can be seen here. This piece, here.

On Opposites
  • opposites can refer to either:
    • Alternating opposite sheds. For example, a shed from shafts 1-2 is alternated with 3-4. Contrasting colors are used for the wefts. Tabby is optional, but produces a more stable fabric.
    • Pattern blocks. For example, one pattern block is treadled with shafts 2-3 for so many shots, and then treadled 1-2 for so many shots. The second block is treadled with the opposite shafts 4-1 and 3-4. With this treadling, tabby must be used to avoid long warp floats.
  • produces a weft-faced fabric
  • See Weaving On Opposites for more information.
"Cottage Windows." An on-opposites pattern produced from opposite pattern blocks.


Italian Manner (also called Italian style or Italian method)
  • three shuttles
    • one pattern weft (often the heaviest yarn)
    • two background wefts in different colors (known as Background A and Background B) similar in size to the warp
  • treadling sequence is four shots
    • Pattern
    • Background A
    • Pattern
    • Background b
  • background wefts use opposite sheds between the pattern shots, either
    • 1-2 and 3-4
    • 1-4 and 2-3
  • no tabby. The Italian manner replaces tabby with a different set of opposite sheds.
  • emphasis is on color
  • The color sequence remains consistent throughout, it is the treadling that progresses with each block. Eg. 
    • A alternates 1-2 and 3-4
    • B alternates 2-3 and 4-1
    • C alternates 3-4 and 1-2
    • D alternates 4-1 and 2-3
  • can also be woven with one or two shuttles
  • See The Italian Manner for more details

Polychrome (poly= many, chrome = color)
  • method of color mixing
  • four weft colors
  • can use different color warp
  • treadled to rotate two weft colors per weft block (one as pattern, the other as tabby)
There are others, but I'm going to stop here for now, as this will give me plenty to work on.  Hopefully, I can add more in the future. Also, I plan to add photos of each as I work my way through them. 

2 comments:

Lynnette said...

What a wonderful article on Crackle, which is my absolute favourite to weave of late. There seems to be so many ways to treadle the weave structure that just I could play around with it forever.

Leigh said...

Lynette, thank you! I've been very impressed with your crackle scarves. Just gorgeous. I am really looking forward to experimenting with it.