Tucked away in my copy of
Tying Up the Countermarch Loom by Joanne Hall, I found the notes I'd once written about how to warp the Glimakra back-to-front (B2F). 47 steps! And none of it rings a bell. Eek! My first impulse was to go to YouTube, where I found a few videos, but those still left me with questions. Next, I read through my blog posts on warping back-to-front. My
Warping the Glimakra: Winding It On post had some helpful notes, photos, and comments from readers. But it wasn't enough to take me through the process, so I pulled out Chandler's
Learning to Weave and Osterkamp's first two volumes of her
New Guide to Weaving series,
and started reading.
The purpose of this series is to write a guide for myself. I want to detail the steps for next time and as many times as it takes afterward until it becomes second nature to me again. Maybe it will be helpful for someone else too. I will likely modify this as I try variations, so suggestions and tips are welcome!
- (Osterkamp) Use a double half hitch at beginning and end of warp. After the warp is measured, cut the end of the loop and slip the tail off.
- Keep all knots at threading lease end of the warp, as this is where the threads must later be cut apart for threading the heddles. I.e., the raddle end loop needs to remain intact for securing the warp onto the end stick.
1. Mark the warp path with a guide string and measure the warp.
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I decided to try Osterkamp's method of 2 leases (crosses).
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| At one end is the thread-by-thread lease for threading the heddles |
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| At the other end is the raddle lease. It groups warp according to sett and raddle sections.
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Raddle lease example: for this project, the sett is 8 e.p.i., and my raddle sections are ½ inch. So my raddle lease groups are four warp ends (threads) each.
2. Keep track by counting the raddle groups. |
My raddle groups were 4 ends each, so I chose to count them in groups
of 5, or 20 ends per group. There are 100 warp ends shown here. |
- Don't allow warp ends to overlap on the pegs (creates uneven lengths)
- Keep bouts (sections of warp) to no more than 1.5 to 2 inches in width (pegs tend to pull in as they fill with warp, creating uneven lengths).
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| Warp ends not overlapping. About 1.5 inches total width. |
3. Secure crosses with choke ties. For a long warp, also secure 1 yard sections with ties.
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| Threading lease tied off |
Tying Tips:
- Use two ties per peg.
- Don't catch the guide string in the ties.
- Use different color ties to notate threading and raddle ends of the warp, also top and bottom of the warp.
4. The raddle is threaded first, so chain the warp starting at the threading cross end.
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| Chained warp bouts |
Dressing the Glimakra B2F Step 2: Loading the Raddle
Dressing the Glimakra B2F Step 4: Threading, Sleying, Lashing On
Dressing the Glimakra B2F Step 5: Tying Up the Lamms & Treadles
2 comments:
Well first off I love that yarn! What is being used for weft?
Seems as if you are back on the weaving bicycle isn't it nice?
That particular loom is a classic and can be a bit of a pill to work with as the lessons are learned. But when a weaver masters it rumor has
that the possibilities are amazing and endless.
I have never had that pleasure but I have several friends who own one in the loom collections and both sign high praises to anyone who listens.
Looking forward to the next installment!
Goatldi, the weft is a sage green. I think it will work very well with the weft. At least I hope so!
I have to say that I feel very fortunate to have that loom. I wasn't particularly looking for either a Glimakra or a countermarch, but I was interested in getting an 8-shaft loom. It was rather providential that this one showed up for sale at a good price and when I had the money.
That said, I am so glad I have the table loom for reacquainting myself with weaving. If I'd only had the Glimakra, I would have been hopelessly lost!
So, yes, back on the bicycle! Next bicycle to remount - spinning!
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