Dressing the Glimakra B2F Step 2: Loading the Raddle

Continued from Dressing the Glimakra B2F Step 1: Measuring the Warp

First question: where to load the raddle? At the loom or on a table and then carry it to the loom?

Second question: where to place the raddle at the loom?

There are a variety of answers to these questions, all of which reflect the preferences of different weavers and the types of looms they have. My choices are my experiments, to be tweaked in the future as it suits me.

1. Set up the loom

Considering the size and weight of my raddle, plus the amount of room I have to work in, I opted to load the raddle at the back of the loom. Here is my set-up.

a. Support sticks rest on the front and back beams.

b. Lease sticks to secure the raddle lease (cross).

c. Raddle is as as close to the back beam as possible. Peggy Osterkamp recommends this as the best position to help ensure that the warp winds on at the same width as on the raddle.

d. End stick

Note: I later fine tuned the set-up because I found the lease and end sticks slid around too much as I worked with the warp. Here's what I did about it, and what I'll do next time . . .

With shoe laces, the end stick is tied to the back beam
and the lease sticks are tied to the gable of the loom.

One "problem" is my double back beam, as it's somewhat in the way. I considered removing it, but that would be another step, and I don't have a place to put it at the moment. I decided to try and work around it. I'll adjust if necessary. 

2. Insert lease sticks into the raddle cross.

Bouts spread out on lease sticks.

Lease sticks tied together to prevent warp from slipping off.

3. Insert end stick into the raddle end of the warp.

This is where it came in handy to have used different color choke ties for the upper and lower sides of the cross. Otherwise, I might have twisted some of the bouts when I put them on the end stick.

After the bouts are on the end stick, the choke ties are removed.

4. Distribute the raddle groups in the raddle.

I had 88 raddle groups of 4 threads each, so I counted out 44 raddle dents from center to begin laying them in, starting starting at one end and working to the other.

5. Attach the end stick to the back apron rod or transfer warp to apron rod.

Here, they are tied together with stout string, starting in the middle
of the warp and working outward with new ties every 3 or 4 inches.

I found tying the rods together to be tedious and time consuming. Next time, I'll try transferring the warp from the end stick to the apron rod. 

6. Remove the lease sticks.

7. Secure the raddle.

Ready for the next step

Options for raddle placement are as varied as there are weavers. Chandler puts her's on the breast beam, while Osterkamp recommends as close to the back beam as possible. I was able to tie mine onto the back of the loom.

My conclusion about the second back beam is to remove it, unless I'm going to use it. While it was only mildly inconvenient to have it on the loom, I think it would be easier to warp without it. 

Now, I'm ready to wind the warp onto the back beam.

Dressing the Glimakra B2F Step 2: Loading the Raddle

 © May 2024 by Leigh at Leigh's Fiber Journal

Related posts

Step One: Glimakra Assembled!

Step Two: The Countermarch Tie-Up

Step Three: Planning That First 8-shaft Project 

Dressing the Glimakra B2F Step 1: Measuring the Warp

Dressing the Glimakra B2F Step 3: Winding on the Warp 

Dressing the Glimakra B2F Step 4: Threading, Sleying, Lashing On

Dressing the Glimakra B2F Step 5: Tying Up the Lamms & Treadles

Dressing the Glimakra B2F Step 6: Checking the Shed, Weaving a Header