Well,
Peg was absolutely correct when she said that I was learning a lot. Indeed!
After
learning how slow Pro MX turquoise is, I decided that I needed another mini-skein using my original recipe. This time I left it in the dyepot for 2 days, allowing the turquoise to do it's thing. Below is a comparison of those two skeins. They follow exactly the same recipe, with the same proportions of Turquoise MX-G, Red MX-5B (fuchsia), and Black MX-CWA. The only difference is the amount of time the skeins were allowed to soak in the dyebath.
Still too purple. But I had also learned that the Procion fuchsia dyes are strong, so that a little goes a long way. So for my next series of experiments, I began to adjust the amount of fuchsia.
Since I needed 50 milliliters of dye solutions for each skein, I knew that I couldn't simply use less fuchsia. I would have to make up the difference by increasing something else, either the turquoise or the black. Increasing the black didn't seem to be the answer, so I made up the difference with the turquoise.
Here are the results from that (target color is on the left):
Click on above image to enlarge
For each sample, I decreased the fuchsia by half. So the top is 100% of the fuchsia called for, the second is a half, third is a quarter, and bottom is one eighth the amount of fuchsia. Each sample soaked for about 48 hours.
Obviously, none of them are anywhere near the color I was aiming for. Next steps might include finer adjustments of the turquoise and fuchsia. Or experimenting with depth of shade. In fact,
Diane has been doing a similar series of hex code dyeing experiments with depth of shade on silk and muslin fabric. Her first set of swatches starts
here. They are very interesting so I encourage you to go take a look.
One thing I noticed from my 2nd set of samples, is that the third one looks similar to another color in
my original palette, #1470C4 ....
However, part of the problem with these experiments is that there is no way to accurately analyze the results. Why? Because there is no way to establish the "exact" overall hue of the yarn. In order to use my computer to determine the hex code for the yarn, I can use a color picker. However, a color picker will only grab the color from one of millions of pixels which make up a picture. Take a look at a tiny detail from the same yarn photo, enlarged enough to show the pixels.
You can see why it's easy to create an almost infinite palette from just one photo! You can also see why there is no accurate way to choose the exact color which matches the overall appearance of the yarn. This points to another problem, i.e. having to go through multiple layers of color interpretation -- eye > camera > photograph > photo software > computer monitor > eye. In the end, they can only be analyzed visually.
So, to do that, here is the original photo with my 2nd sample skeins.
Technically exact? No. Visually accurate? Close! And you know what? I feel that now at least, I'm somewhere in the ball park instead of wandering around the parking lot.
Conclusions? None yet, but I am still intrigued enough to continue experimenting along this line.
Next .....
Computer Hex Code Dyeing 5: 1st Success?
Related posts:
Dye Recipes From Computer Color Codes: A Theory
Computer Hex Code Dyeing 1: Palettes From Pictures
Computer Hex Code Dyeing 2: Wrestling With Recipes
Computer Hex Code Dyeing 3: 1st Samples - No Joy
Computer Hex Code Dyeing 5: 1st Success?
Originally published July 21, 2008
I will say with confidence that this is the closest I've gotten so far to my target blue. Is it exact? Even making allowances for the difference in media and electronic interpretations, I have to say no. Can I get any closer? I don't know.
The recipe used the same color proportions as I used for the sample on the right (turquoise MX-G, 76%; red MX-5B, 10%; and black MX-CWA, 14%.) With that series of samples, I experimented with adjusting the amounts of fuchsia and turquoise. This lighter blue sample was the closest match to my cedar waxwing photo.
