Thursday, November 21, 2024

Crackle Manners of Weaving: Petitpoint

 
Originally, I was going to make one long post covering two related manners of weaving, swivel and petitpoint (which is a subcategory of swivel). It was a lot to wrap my head around, however, so I broke it down into two posts. You can read about swivel, including the similarities and differences, here.
 
 Petitpoint
  • A subcategory of swivel.
  • So called because it resembles petitpoint embroidery.
  • Uses the same 3/1 twill tie-up as swivel (here)
  • Unlike swivel, petitpoint adds tabby to the pattern and background wefts
  • Two shuttles and two colors 
    • pattern is one color and can be heavier
    • background and tabby are the same as the warp
  • Also like swivel, petitpoint has long floats on the back
  • In The Weaving Book, Helene Bress offers three ways to treadle it 
 
Petitpoint I. This treadle pattern is the one found in Wilson and Brusic (see "Resources" below).

#29 Petitpoint swivel I.
  • Block A
    • P: 2-3-4
    • B: 1-2-4
    • T: 1-3
  • Block B
    • P: 1-3-4                
    • B: 1-2-3
    • T: 2-4
  • Block C
    • P: 1-2-4
    • B: 2-3-4
    • T: 1-3
  • Block D
    • P: 1-2-3
    • B: 1-3-4
    • T: 2-4
  • My block order is D, A, B, C

Weaving Observations

  • Like swivel, this is somewhat complicated to weave on a table loom, because each shed requires manually lifting three shafts. 
  • Makes an interesting design.
 
Petitpoint II. From Bress page 99. The pattern treadling is still used, but the background treadling is replaced with tabby a (1-3) and b (2-4), with both following each pattern shot.
 
#30, petitpoint swivel II
  •  Block A
    • P: 2-3-4
    • Ta: 1-3
    • Tb: 2-4
  • Block B
    • P: 1-3-4                
    • Ta: 1-3
    • Tb: 2-4
  • Block C
    • P: 1-2-4
    • Ta: 1-3
    • Tb: 2-4
  • Block D
    • P: 1-2-3
    • Ta: 1-3
    • Tb: 2-4
Weaving Observations
  • As far as I can tell, it looks identical to variant I
  • Easier to weave that variant I
 
Petitpoint III. Easiest and quickest yet. Alternates pattern shots with tabby. 

At first I thought I would weave each block to square, but after one block decided it wasn't interesting enough to continue.
 

Instead, I rotated the pattern shots, one after the other, with tabby in between.
 
#31, petitpoint swivel III
  • Block A
    • P: 2-3-4
    • T: 1-3
  • Block B
    • P: 1-3-4                
    • T: 2-4
  • Block C
    • P: 1-2-4
    • T: 1-3
  • Block D
    • P: 1-2-3
    • T: 2-4
 
And one more. This one is a "what if I . . ." sample. Petitpoint I has pattern, background, and tabby wefts. What if I left the tabby the same as the warp, but used different contrasting colors for the background and pattern wefts?
 
#32. Pattern weft in pink, background in blue, and tabby in natural.
 
close up

It was definitely the most interesting sample to weave, and one I wouldn't mind playing around with more. Someday.

2 comments:

Unknown said...

I finally learned to weave swivel upside down. That way you only lift one shaft, it goes like lightning, and it’s a really nice surprise when you cut it off the loom. I use a mirror to check it as I weave. .

Leigh said...

Wow, that's a great idea! Thanks! I'm thinking about weaving some fabric to upholster a stool top. Weaving upside down would be so much easier.