Wednesday, May 31, 2006

b2f Warping Progress

I haven't gotten any further than this.

Progress is slow as you can see, especially since I’ve been busy with other things. I did discover that I don’t have enough heddles for this warp and had to order more. Hopefully they will arrive soon so that I can continue without delay.

I’ve also received some very helpful comments in regards to my problem, i.e. the warp bunching on the warp beam. I’m relieved to know that it isn’t my raddle, nor necessarily me. Also that there are things I can try next time. So, many thanks to Valerie, and Jackie.

Next ...... Warp Sleyed


Related Posts:
f2b Versus b2f - Beginning of this series
b2f Log Cabin Weaving - finished fabric from this series

Ethel Photo Challenge

Just for fun I’ve entered one of Ethel’s weekly photo challenges. When I saw her topic, “Under the Pink,” this old pic came to mind and I couldn’t resist entering:

Rascal under (or should I say in) the pink.Click on pic to biggify

Handspinners will recognize the picker in the background. (It isn’t mine, I borrowed it from the Blue Ridge Spinners.) A picker is a rather wicked, medieval torture looking device which serves to open up a sheep's fleece. It can be done by hand as well, and is then referred to as "teasing." The purpose of this step is to separate all the individual fibers, making it easier to control the spinning of yarn.

I had dyed an entire fleece pink and was using the picker to prepare it for color blending on my drum carder. As fiber was flying everywhere and floating down in fluffy pink clouds, Rascal made a little nest for himself as you can see.

He never can resist burrowing into a pile of clean fiber. He particularly likes napping on neatly stacked batts fresh off the drum carder.

After extracting cat, blending, spinning, and weaving, this pile of pink fluff eventually became this poncho:

Handsome young man modeling my handspun, handwoven poncho.This was the first time I wove with my handspun, using it as weft with a commercial wool warp. It pleased the recipient (my husband, who is not the model in the above photo) and it pleased me to have a successful first go weaving my own yarn.


Related Posts:
Better Than Catnip
Kitty Crib
Got Fleece?
Yarn Guard

Monday, May 29, 2006

Dyed Silk Noil/Alpaca Yarn

Clean silk noils, ready to use.







The second sample of silk noil in my pack was labeled “Clean Noil.”

Close-up shot of teased fiber.























I decided to dye this. At first I tried the exhaust dyestock from the Easter egg dyes, but though the water was bright with color, the blue in particular refused to impart any of it to the fiber. So I sprinkled each batch with dye powder and this is what I ended up with:

Dyed noils.







I had first thought to spin it as is, but the fiber length was less than ¼ inch, so I blended it with handfuls of alpaca fleece.

The yarn:

Alpaca/silk noil blend yarn.















2-ply measures 10 WPI after washing and abusing. Unfortunately the green noils look washed out in these images. The yarn spoke to me of knitting, so here is a swatch, front (left) and back which I also liked (right). So reverse stockinette is a possibility.

Knitted swatch, front and back.












The hand is a bit harsher than I like, but I’m musing the possibilities. I don’t mind this kind of yarn for outer wear. And since I still have 2 large handfuls of the dyed noil to do something with, I guess I’ll reach a decision eventually.

Related Posts:
Mulberry Silk Noil - handcarding & spinning
Spinning Tussah Silk Noil - scouring & spinning
Silk Fiber Fusion - using dyed silk noils

Saturday, May 27, 2006

b2f Part 2

By Leigh

I can’t tell you how much I have appreciated the supportive and encouraging comments I received on my last post. It’s especially interesting to read when and why weavers choose one method of warping over another. This is helpful information!

Ok, this is where I left off with my b2f warping a few days ago. ( I know, I know, this is actually a thinly veiled attempt to pass off another disgustingly cute kitty picture.) :-)

Rascal keeping an eye on the photographer.

In doing my research I realized that there is no one single way to warp b2f. I chose Chandler’s instructions, and occasionally refer to Osterkamp. For the most part things have gone pretty well so far.

Some things have been familiar to me:
  • Working with only one cross (the threading lease)
  • Beaming the warp through the front instead of the back

Some things have been new:
  • Using a counting thread while measuring the warp. I really liked this however. It seemed easier to count and keep track of groups of 12s rather than counting to 864.
  • Using a raddle
  • Placing packing sticks to separate the layers of apron cords as I wound them on. I didn't used to use anything to separate the layers of warp until I got to the the knots which tied onto the back apron rod.
  • Putting lease sticks through the cross and hanging them from the back of the 4th shaft. I found this awkward at first, and the sticks seemed to be in my way. But I am adjusting and really like not having to reach all the way through from the back of the loom to the reed, to try and find the next ends to thread. (A lot of fun with my bifocals!)
  • Sitting at the front of my loom to thread the heddles. As mentioned above it's easier with the warp closer to me. Plus, I found that my empty beater makes a convenient little shelf for my book, scissors, and threading hook.

I paid particular attention to tensioning, utilizing several methods:
  • Weighting the warp with a heavy box on the floor as I wound on.
  • Bracing my knee against the loom and pulled each group of ends as hard as I could
  • Giving the group an additional jerk before moving on to the next group.

The thing that was my biggest concern however was the way the warp wound onto the warp beam. Instead of a neatly behaved warp in a solid layer, I had “clumps” of ends with spaces between the raddle spaces, as you can see:

This is not how I wanted my warp to look as it wound on.

I understand now that the “valleys” between these groups create uneven spots and hence potential differences in tension across the width of the warp. The only things I can think of are to try and keep the warp spread out in the raddle better (next time). Or perhaps my raddle spaces are too far apart(?) They are ½ inch and I am using 16/2s cotton sett at 24 epi.

So here’s were I am at the moment. You can see the warp ends spread across the lease sticks and hanging about heddle eye height behind the 4th shaft:

Warp ends spread across the lease sticks and hanging about heddle eye height behind the 4th shaft.

Progress will probably be a bit slow, as I've only begun to thread the heddles. But I am motivated, so hopefully it won’t be too long before I can see how well I’ve done and start weaving.

Next, b2f Warping Progress


Related Posts:
f2b Versus b2f - Beginning of this series
b2f, Warp Sleyed
b2f Log Cabin Weaving - finished fabric from this series
Evaluating My b2f Warp
B2F Warping - Still Tweaking
B2F Vs. F2B - Why I Switched

Thursday, May 25, 2006

Mulberry Silk Noil

Mulbery silk noil, grade A.
On the spinning front, I’ve started working with silk noil. We received three different types in our silk packs. I liked the grade A mulberry noil best, and so decided to work with it first.

Close-up of teased mulberry noil.Noil is considered a waste product from the silk industry. The fibers are actually the short threads the caterpillar first spins to anchor itself for the process of cocoon spinning. The noils are little bits of broken cocoon, pupae shell, and any other odds and ends leftover from the cocoon spinning process. 

There are quite a few possibilities of what I can do with my silk noil. Some I want to dye, some I plan to blend, and I would also like to try my hand at silk fusion paper making. But the mulberry noil I decided to spin on its own.
Basket of handcarded noil rolags.
The ½ to 1 inch fibers were easily and quickly carded into rolags on my cotton hand carders. I spun it long draw with lots of twist. You can see from my control card how textured it is. I’m not sure how well I like those little pieces of cocoon and whatnot in the yarn. I picked the biggest ones out, but there were too many to get them all.










Close-up of control card.
Here are the particulars:

* Weight, 28 grams
* Fiber length was ½ to 1 inch
* Abundant bits & noils
* Spinning ratio 10:1
* Spun woolen method
* Singles, 20 WPI
* 2-ply, 16 WPI
* Yardage, >89

The challenges:

* Dealing with all the noily bits took a little getting used to. The fiber alone tends to spin out sewing thread fine, while the noils create relatively giant slubs. I had to take care during spinning to maintain the integrity of the yarn.

* Treadling and drafting speed. I had to experiment a bit with this and finally settled on a fairly slow speed to both treadle and draft. This enable me to get the twist I needed but still control the noily parts of the fiber.

* Too much whiteness! I wanted to spin it as-is since I’ve never worked with silk noil before, but my eyes really long for color in the process. I will dye some next and so spin it with some color.

And of course, the yarn:

Handspun mulberry silk noil yarn.
Related Posts:
Dyed Silk Noil/Alpaca Yarn - blending acid dyed noil & alpaca
Spinning Tussah Silk Noil - scouring & spinning
Silk Fiber Fusion - using dyed silk noils